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I create my recipes based on the effect I want them to have. I may want a lotion that is very creamy and soft, or I may want one that's especially good for dry skin. I may prefer a lighter or heavier lotion depending on the time of year. I choose my essential oils based on the therapeutic effect I want. If these things are important to you, I recommend building up a collection of useful references so that you can look up the information you need. Understanding the function of ingredients is important in creating a recipe that works. This means not only understanding the function of the category (butter, emulsifier, carrier oil, etc.) but also the specific ingredient (cocoa butter, bee's wax, coconut oil, etc.)
These are essential for measuring oils. When shopping for pipettes, the best ones to look for are graduated. This means that they have markings like a measuring cup. I bought six-inch pipettes from Nature's Gift that have markings at every half ml. I have not found a way to use these in my own situation since I cannot see to judge the amount of oil in the pipette; but for someone who can see this is an important feature.
The glass eye droppers from Nature's Gift hold 1 ml of oil. Some of the pages I have been reading advise against buying droppers with rubber tops. I wouldn't use these as tops for my bottles, but I don't know that it's a bad thing to use them at all. Until I come across some good 1-ml pipettes, glass droppers are in for me.
There are numerous places to buy containers. The important thing to remember is that dark or opaque bottles are best unless you're marketing and need for people to see your lotions. Exposure to light will cause your products to deteriorate more quickly.
This is a general listing of things you might use in recipes and what they do. Recipes will follow.
Water provides the "bulk" of the product. It is what gives the product its volume. My lotion base contains 60 percent water.
Tap water is not pure, so it is best to use distilled water in your recipes. This minimizes growth of bacteria.
Emulsifiers help your oils to mix well with water. They are vital ingredients in lotions and creams since water is the source of most of the volume in the cream.
So far my favorite emulsifier is the emulsifying wax from Nature's Gift. I'm still experimenting, though.
Butters give lotion its texture. The amount of butter used also determines the thickness of the lotion. My first lotion was too thick, so for the next batch I reduced the amount of butter and was much happier with the result. There are several different kinds of butters, each having a slightly different effect. I'm still making notes about this.
Carrier oils provide the most skin care benefit in lotions and also help to extend the shelf life of essential oils. Carrier oils differ in thickness and shelf life. Some, such as coconut oil, are very thick and are what makes suds in soaps. Others, such as grape seed oil, are very light. Using this in a lotion base will make the cream more silky.
My favorite source for carrier oils is Mountain Rose Herbs. They carry a large selection of oils in sizes from 8 oz to 5 gallons.
Essential oils provide medicinal value in cosmetics--they may treat acne, relieve pain, reduce inflamation, etc. They are also the things used in aromatherapy.
Essential oils come from plants and therefore smell like the plants. This can be good or bad depending on the plant. Some are quite noxious, and their use is in healing rather than in perfumery. If you're after a pleasing scent, you can obtain it using other essential oils such as Niaouli, Balsam Fir, Lemon, Orange, Lavender, etc. Some plants do not yield essential oils or are so rare that the oils are very expensive. If you want other fragrances, you can obtain them by infusing herbs into carrier oils. This is how I plan to get scents like raspberry in the future for my lotions and perfumes because I really want to work with all natural products whenever possible.
If you don't want to work with herbs or want scents for adding to candles or soaps and don't mind the presence of synthetic chemicals used to create fragrance oils, several companies offer these oils. Fragrance oils are not the same thing as essential oils, and use of the term "aromatherapy" to refer to them is inappropriate. Aromatherapy is a type of alternative medicine. If you are making soap or other cosmetics, be sure to buy cosmetic grade fragrance oils. These are fragrance oils that have been approved for use on the skin.
I have been experimenting for a long time, working for the perfect lotion base in terms of texture. Texture is a personal preference, and you may not like this. Adjust the water or oil up or down slightly to get a more liquid or thicker effect. Or use different carrier oils to alter the texture. For instance, macadamia oil is thick and has a baby oil feel. Jojoba oil absorbs very quickly and is rather thin.
6 oz water 1/2 oz butter of choice 1/2 oz wax 1 oz carrier oil of choice 1/8 tsp citric acid 6 ml scent
Heat water in one container. Separately, heat carrier, butter, and wax. When done, add butter/oil misture slowly to water and then add citric acid. Whisk thoroughly and allow to cool, whisking every half hour or so, before adding essential oils or fragrance. Makes approximately eight or twn oz.